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An issue that I’ve had in the past, which largely turned me off of raw denim, was the waist stretching wayyy too much and the thighs not enough. It got to the point on a couple pairs where if I wasn’t wearing a belt, the constriction around the mid- thigh would be the only thing keeping the pants up. Seems like there’s way more relaxed options now (like N&F easy guy) that would alleviate this, but i just can’t will myself to try it again

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Jan 21Liked by Kevin O'Neill

Are you me? I found an old pair of black jeans at my parents' house over the holidays and have enjoyed having something black around after previously disposing of it all. Good stuff.

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Haha very strange. Normally I wear nothing but pastels and earth tones, but black jeans just felt kinda right for some reason

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Good stuff as always. I am a compulsive raw denim buyer. Usually purchasing a new pair every other year or so, usually in line with weight fluctuations. I really do just want a pair to wear into the dirt, but it seems like every time I get a pair where I want, I outgrow them. When I dropped a ton of weight last year, I was able to fit back into some APCs that I bought in 2016 or so, which was a special treat. C'est la vie.

I wouldn't mind going with cheaper denim, but I am just so used to the raw denim feel that I anything with stretch or less than ~14oz feels off. The inpredictability of stretch also makes it tough. The last two pair of 3sixteens I've bought (kibata rinsed and the stone wash, both in the CS cut) fit great on first try but stretched what feels like two full inches. Hopefully the pair of Sugar Canes I just bought don't do the same lol

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Also, I find that getting denim altered has a much higher variance than regular pants. Maybe it's just because not every tailor has the equipment or experience in handling heavier denim? To say nothing of the lack of chainstitching!

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